The Island That Burned for Six Years
In 1419, when the island was discovered by the Portuguese, they named it Madeira (meaning “wood” in Portuguese). Madeira is a lush, green island, prominently located in the heart of the blue Atlantic Ocean, off the coast of Morocco. Upon their arrival, the Portuguese set fires to the island’s forests to clear land for agriculture. According to legend, the island burned for six years, making it impossible to settle there.
When Madeira was finally colonized, the Portuguese recognized the island’s immense potential for wealth—sugar. At the time, sugar was an expensive commodity in Europe, as it only grows well up to the latitude 36° North, which marks the northern limit of Europe’s climate. The sugar plantations that spread across the island were primarily worked by slaves from West Africa, captured near the African coast. By 1500 AD, Madeira had become the world’s largest exporter of sugar.
How do you make wine that ripens at sea without the ship ever leaving the dock?
When sugar production moved from Madeira to the vast expanses of South America, the island’s main crop shifted to wine. During the 18th and 19th centuries, trade between Europe, England, South America, Australia, and South Africa flourished. Madeira served as a vital stopover for ships to refuel with water before crossing the equator on journeys from north to south and vice versa. Sailing ships left the island with local water and wines, and returned with hides, wool, and grain.
Once ships reached the equator, a windless zone, their progress was often stalled. At times, they would drift for weeks, waiting for favorable winds. During this delay, the wine barrels aboard would heat up to temperatures of up to 40°C and be subjected to constant rocking. As the voyage continued and the ships moved farther from the equator, the temperature would cool. By the time the wine reached Australia or South America, it had developed a surprising “cooked” taste. Wine merchants would often add sugar syrup—already a common addition in Madeira—to refine the flavor, thus giving birth to the sweet Madeira wine.
Merchants began sending barrels of Madeira to the Indies specifically to enrich the wine, thereby adding value to it. Later, the island’s resourceful merchants wondered if they could replicate the conditions of a sea voyage to the equator without the wine ever leaving the island. by the mid-eighteenth century, wineries invested in estufagem (baking process) chambers method, in which large heating tanks “cook” the wine using steam pipes, raising the temperature to 50°C for three months. The wine is then aged in barrels for at least three years. Today, only simpler Madeira wines are made using estufagems.
Higher-quality Madeira wines, however, undergo a long maturation process in wooden barrels, sometimes lasting up to 30 years. This method, known as the Canteiro process, involves gentle aging in the warm weather of Madeira without the wine being cooked. These wines are considered the highest quality Madeira. If you’ve purchased a bottle of high-quality Madeira from the last 20 years, it was likely produced using this process. For older wines, there is no guarantee of the production method used. During aging in barrels, the wine is deliberately exposed to air, which causes it to oxidize.
There are only seven wineries left on the island, all located in the capital city of Funchal. These wineries do not grow their own grapes but purchase them from various vineyards, based on location and quality. The higher the vineyard, the more expensive the grapes. The harvest is entirely manual, as machines have yet to be invented that can navigate the steep terraces of the island, which are almost like climbing walls. The grapes are fermented with natural yeast. As with port wine, a small amount of distilled cane alcohol is added to the wine to halt fermentation. This increases the alcohol content to 17-18%. The wine is then transferred to barrels, which are sealed with red wax, marked with the date of the last inspection.
As the wine must be regularly tasted, a representative from the Madeira Production Supervision Institute is invited to remove the seal and take a sample for tasting. Afterward, the seal is renewed, just as it was centuries ago.
100 Shades of Sweet
Madeira wine is crafted from five main grape varieties—four white and one red. These include (from dry to sweet order):
- Sercial – The driest Madeira wine, with residual sugar levels between 18 and 65 grams per liter. It is characterized by almond flavors and high acidity.
- Terrantez – An off-dry wine known for its delicate yet elegant flavors. This rare variety nearly disappeared in the last century as its cultivation declined. However, Terrantez wines are incredibly long-lived, with some examples from the 18th and 19th centuries still available today.
- Verdelho – A semi-dry Madeira wine with residual sugar levels ranging from 65 to 78 grams per liter. Verdelho is marked by its smoky notes and high acidity.
- Boal– A semi-sweet Madeira wine, with residual sugar levels between 78 and 96 grams per liter. Boal wines are known for their dark color, medium-rich texture, and raisin-like flavors.
- Malvasia (or Malmsey) – The sweetest Madeira wine, with residual sugar levels between 96 and 135 grams per liter. Malvasia wines are distinguished by their dark color, rich texture, and coffee-caramel flavors. Despite their sweetness, the high acidity of the Malvasia grapes ensures a balanced and delicately sweet taste.
Traditionally, grape varieties such as Sercial thrive in the cooler northern regions or at the highest elevations of the southern coast. Meanwhile, Malvasia and Boal are typically cultivated in the warmer southern areas. Verdelho, however, grows well across the entire island.
Categories of Madeira Wine
Madeira wines are divided into two main categories: blends and single-vintage wines.
- Blends: These wines are labeled by age—3 years, 5 years, 10 years, 15 years, 20 years, 30 years, or “older than 40.” Winemakers aim for consistency in flavor and quality year after year in this category.
- Single-Vintage Wines: These are further divided into two subcategories: Colheita and Frasqueira (also known as Vintage Madeira). These wines are made from exceptional-quality grapes and must age for at least 20 years in oak barrels before bottling. This prolonged oak aging imparts unique aromas and the intense complexity Madeira wines are renowned for.
Madeira wines, especially those aged using the canteiro method, are remarkably durable. They can last for decades—or even centuries—after bottling and remain drinkable even after opening.
Madeira Wines and the American Revolution
Madeira was a very important wine in the history of the United States of America. Since no quality wine grapes were grown in the original thirteen colonies, it was necessary to import it, with a large focus on Madeira. One of the key events leading up to the American Revolution in which Madeira played a key role was the capture of the Liberty Ship on May 9, 1768. The ship was captured after unloading a cargo of Madeira wine barrels, and a dispute arose with England over import duties. The capture of the Liberty Ship caused riots to break out among the residents of Boston, one of the events that led to the American Revolutionary War. Thomas Jefferson, George Washington, Benjamin Franklin and other famous American leaders were fans of Madeira wine and it was used in the toast to the signing of the Declaration of Independence.
The Madeira wine industry was severely affected by the American Prohibition. In 1933, when Prohibition ended, modern shipping technologies eliminated the need for ships to stop in Madeira on their way between Europe and the United States for refueling and restocking. As a result, the wine was given the unflattering nickname The Forgotten Island Wine. The decline continued into the second half of the 20th century in both sales and reputation, as Madeira wine became associated with a low-quality “cooking wine”, just as it had been with Marsala wines. Towards the end of the 20th century, some producers began to refocus on quality and replanted the “noble grape” varieties of Sercial, Verdelho, Boal and Malvasia. Today, the wine’s reputation has been restored, although its main markets are now Europe.
Hiking in Madeira
Madeira is a stunning destination for hiking, boasting unique geological and historical features. Interestingly, the island has no natural sandy beaches along its entire coastline. While some beaches have imported sand from Morocco, they are not the highlights of this volcanic island.
Being geologically young, Madeira’s dramatic topography is defined by towering cliffs that rise hundreds of meters above the sea, offering breathtaking views. This striking landscape has a storied past; throughout history, pirates frequently raided Madeira, prompting residents to carve out trails along the cliffs for reconnaissance and defense.
Today, these historical routes have been transformed into hiking trails that allow visitors to explore the island’s rugged beauty without the fear of pirate invasions. One highly recommended trail is the Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço, located on Madeira’s easternmost peninsula.
This well-maintained trail is approximately 7.5 kilometers (round trip), with an elevation gain of about 420 meters. The path begins and ends at a convenient parking area, making it accessible for all levels of hikers. The route is a round trip, so you can enjoy the walk at your own pace and return to your car when you’re ready. The views along the trail, with the dramatic cliffs and sweeping ocean vistas, make it an unforgettable experience.
Thanks to Madeira’s unique climate, which remains relatively warm year-round, a lush forest with countless shades of green thrives between 500 and 1,500 meters above sea level. This enchanting forest is a delight to explore, but the true marvel lies in the island’s Levadas —ingenious water channels designed to transport water from the rainy northern slopes to the drier, yet agriculturally favorable, southern regions.
These channels, built through the labor of many workers, including slaves, over the years, extend for thousands of kilometers. Today, they serve as scenic hiking trails, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the heart of the forest.
One highly recommended hike begins at Parque Floresta das Queimadas. This trail offers a relatively flat walk through dense vegetation and leads to the breathtaking Caldeirão Verde waterfall. The hike is truly unique, not only for its lush green walls dripping with moisture but also for its sense of adventure—requiring you to navigate through five tunnels along the way (don’t forget to bring a flashlight!).
For those seeking a shorter experience, it’s possible to explore just a portion of the trail, enjoying the forest’s serenity and the captivating sight of the mossy, wet walls.
D'Oliveiras
Founded in 1820, Pereira D’Oliveira winery is now managed by Mr. Luis Pereira D’Oliveira, the fifth generation of the family. Mr. Luis embodies the essence of Madeira wine—a quintessential old-school gentleman whose wines have achieved cult status. The founders of D’Oliveira were true visionaries, recognizing Madeira wine’s extraordinary ability to improve with age. Their policy was simple yet revolutionary: sell only 20% of each vintage and reserve the remaining 80% to mature.
This approach led to a remarkable accumulation of stocks over the years. Mr. Luis shared that when he first joined the family business, he urged his father to start exporting their wines. After years of resistance, his father finally agreed, just two years before his passing. Today, Pereira D’Oliveira is a significant global player in the Madeira wine market, yet the family continues its tradition of stockpiling wine for future generations.
To put this into perspective, D’Oliveira currently holds approximately 1.6 million liters of Madeira wine aged 20–30 years or more—the largest reserve of aged Madeira wines in existence. In their 17th-century wine shop, located in the heart of old Funchal, visitors can taste wines dating back to the 19th century. (not a typo – wines from the 19th century). Can you imagine drinking a wine from 1850? Well, they have it. It’s crazy!
Our tasting at D’Oliveira took place on Easter Eve. Mr. Luis, though visibly preoccupied with holiday preparations, graciously hosted us. Four bottles were set before us to begin the tasting.
Before delving into the experience, I must offer a disclaimer—and an apology. Despite my deep appreciation for dessert wines and my many visits to Porto to explore and write about Port wines, I was entirely unacquainted with quality Madeira wines until this tasting. My only prior exposure to Madeira was the bottle of cooking wine my mother kept under the sink, which she occasionally used to enhance sweet dishes taste. I once tasted it as a child and found it rancid and unappealing.
Imagine my astonishment, then, upon my first sip of a fine Madeira wine. The explosion of complex, nuanced flavors was unlike anything I had ever experienced. My daughter and I exchanged smiles of delight that surely did not escape Mr. Luis’s notice. With impeccable manners, he excused himself momentarily and returned with another vintage from the cellar, saying, “So you can appreciate another type of Madeira wine.”
What began as a four-bottle tasting, quickly expanded to ten, each bottle surpassing the last in depth and character. It was a transformative experience—a testament to the enduring magic of Madeira wine and the unwavering dedication of the Pereira D’Oliveira family to preserving its legacy.
Sercial 1969
A masterpiece of complexity! This wine reveals layers of floral notes, dried fruit, tree resin, and orange, with a subtle hint of oxidation in the background. Creamy and rich, it glides across the palate with buttery elegance. Full-bodied and seemingly endless in its finish. I rated it 96 points, while Wine Spectator awarded it 94.
Colheita Tinta Negra 1995
A beautifully complex nose with pronounced coffee aromas. Full-bodied, balanced, and harmonious, it delivers a long, satisfying finish. I rated it 95 points.
Boal 1968
A velvety and impeccably balanced wine, offering flavors of chocolate, concentrated butter, hazelnuts, dried apricots, and tropical fruits. A hint of citrus zest and sea salt adds intrigue. Semi-sweet and harmonious, with a lingering finish, this wine is versatile enough to be enjoyed as an aperitif. I gave it a score of 95, while Wine Spectator rated it 96.
Verdelho 1994
Remarkably complex, with aromas of tree resin, orange, and exotic spices. Semi-dry and exceptionally rich, it’s balanced with a long, elegant finish. A classic aperitif wine that I rated 96 points.
Verdelho 1932
Tasting a wine bottled decades before my birth is an experience to approach with deep respect. This wine boasts a clear amber hue and a complex nose with aromas of quince and tree resin that evolve with each sip. Perfectly harmonious, it stands as one of D’Oliveira’s finest creations. I rated it 96 points, while Robert Parker gave it 92.
Boal 1908
How does one taste a wine bottled before World War I? With trepidation, wondering if time has taken its toll. But this wine defies expectations—it might be D’Oliveira’s crowning achievement. Incredibly complex, with flavors of datesx`, molasses, roasted chestnuts, figs, walnuts, and warm spices. Full-bodied with immense depth, this wine is more a masterpiece of reduction than a mere wine. After a century in wood and demijohn, it shines brilliantly. I awarded it 97 points, while Robert Parker rated it 92.
Malvazia Candida 1910
Deeply complex with enticing aromas of tree resin. Flavors of dates, tar, and molasses create a semi-sweet, harmonious profile. The finish is long and tempting. I rated it 95–96 points. For collectors, it’s worth noting that this wine is priced around $1,000 per bottle, according to Wine-Searcher.
Justino's: A Legacy of Dynamism and Tradition
Founded in 1870, Justino’s is one of Madeira’s oldest wine producers. Despite its venerable history, the winery stands out as one of the island’s most innovative and dynamic producers. Much of this success is credited to Juan Teixeira, their brilliant Chief Oenologist and General Manager. Over the past 20 years, his passion, curiosity, and commitment to innovation have reinvigorated Justino’s wines, while honoring the history, tradition, and authenticity that define the winery.
Justino’s collaborates with 800 grape growers from across Madeira, carefully selecting the finest vineyards for each grape variety. This means nearly every second winemaker on the island works with Justino’s. Their wines are aged in barrels at the expansive Justino’s Lodge, where the natural warmth of the sun gently matures them over time. The result is a collection that showcases the full quality and variety Madeira has to offer.
When Juan Teixeira first joined the winery, he was astounded by the master winemaker’s uncanny ability to determine which wine should go into which barrel and for how long. Even after two decades, Juan admits he still doesn’t fully grasp the intricate art of Madeira wine production. “I know what to do today,” he says, “but I follow in the footsteps of my predecessor to ensure the wines maintain their signature character: abundant fruit, minimal oxidation, and elegance.”
Madeira winemaking is as unforgiving as it is complex. Small errors can become significant after decades of aging. For example, aging wine in the wrong barrel or placing it in a warm attic instead of a cooler cellar can result in a completely different wine when bottled. However, unlike dry wines where mistakes are irreversible, Madeira’s long aging process sometimes allows for corrections.
Juan is deeply concerned about the future of viticulture in Madeira. The island’s steep hillsides, terraced vineyards, and reliance on trellises make mechanization impossible, requiring labor-intensive harvesting. With an aging population of grape growers, limited interest from younger generations, real estate shortage, and competition from other crops, the risk of a grape shortage looms—a challenge that could complicate future wine production.
During our visit, Juan welcomed us with an iconic proposal I still share with friends: “How about we taste one wine from every decade?” Initially, I worried his suggestion might limit the tasting to just a bottle or two. I kept quiet, hiding my disappointment. Sensing my thoughts, Juan smiled warmly and reassured me: “Don’t worry, we’ll go back to the beginning of the twentieth century!”
Juan’s hospitality, passion, and charm made the visit unforgettable. By the time we left the winery, we already missed him.
Colheita Sercial 2008
A wonderfully complex and rich wine with vibrant orange aromas. Medium-bodied with good length. I rated it 95 points.
Colheita Verdelho 2005
Wow—an explosion of complexity! The nose bursts with expressive aromas of dried dates, tree resin, and candied orange peel. Rich, harmonious, and exceptionally long on the palate. I awarded it 96 points.
Colheita Single Cask Tinta Negra 2000
Another “wow” moment! Layers of coffee and tree resin dominate the deep, dark bouquet. Full-bodied with a touch of bitterness and an incredibly long finish. Excellent value for its quality. I rated it 96 points.
Malvasia 1988
Impressively complex, with waves of coffee and orange peel aromas. On the palate, it’s full-bodied and silky, with a perfect balance of acidity and sweetness, culminating in a delightful finish. A standout wine—I gave it 96 points.
Terrantez 1978
This wine showcases a deep mahogany hue and enticing aromas of smoked walnut and wood resin. On the palate, it’s generous and layered, with flavors of orange marmalade, quince, and Indian spices. A powerful, full-bodied Terrantez with remarkable resonance and a very long finish. I rated it 96 points, while Robert Parker awarded it 95.
Boal 1964
Wow—what an experience! The nose offers smoked walnut, a hint of marmalade, and wood resin. The palate is perfectly harmonious, with honey, orange, and clementine flavors shining through. Full-bodied and powerful, this is a hedonistic wine that feels almost endless.
Boal 1934
Juan, with a touch of apology, remarked that 1934 was a dark year for humanity—a year after the rise of Nazism in Germany—but he assured us it wasn’t a bad vintage at all. I couldn’t agree more. This wine is delicate, complex, rich, and elegant. Hints of orange zest enhance the velvety smooth palate. Exceptionally long and indulgent, it’s another hedonistic masterpiece. I rated it 96 points.
