It was late at night, and I was looking for some candy to mend my heart. The house was dark, and the light from the refrigerator fell on an unfamiliar bottle of wine with a black-gold label. Yesterday I put this wine in the fridge after my records labeled it as an unknown wine from the Sauternes region. No, I don’t usually randomly open Sauternes wines late at night, just as a treat. At that time, about a decade ago, I needed to become more familiar with these dessert wines. From the glass came wonderful aromas of tropical fruits and honey. I tasted it and was sold. The incredible richness of the wine almost dropped my jaw (but I was worried that some drops would be lost, so I just smiled to myself). I called my wife to taste it urgently, and she was delighted. In retrospect, it turned out that the wine I tasted was indeed not just any wine, but Château Guiraud (see below my visit to the winery) vintage 2009. A wonderful wine. That was the moment I fell in love with Sauternes wines.
“This is a modest area, with poor soil and unpredictable weather. It is only a wonder that such wonderful wines are made there.”
The Sauternes region is located in the southwest of France, close to the Atlantic Ocean and not far from the border with Spain and is part of the Bordeaux wine region. According to French law, five villages are authorized to use the name “Sauternes.” The village of Sauternes is their most famous and has some of the best wineries. After it is the village of Barsac. Barsac is a village located at the confluence of rivers, where the humidity is particularly high. Because of the high humidity in this region, the Semillon variety constitutes 100% of the blend in most wines. Barsac wine is generally distinguished from other Sauternes by being drier with a lighter body; Nowadays, more Barsac producers promote their wines under the name Barsac and not Sauternes.
Vineyards in Sauternes
Like most of the Bordeaux wine region, the Sauternes region has a maritime climate, which increases the risk of autumn frost, hail, and rains that can destroy an entire vintage. But unlike Bordeaux, the aforementioned villages are part of a unique climate system typical of the Sauternes region. This is a rare climatic phenomenon, which occurs at the meeting between the relatively cold waters of the Ciron stream and those of the Garonne River, which are warmer. There, at the same meeting point between the two rivers, a local fog is formed in the morning, which allows the development of botrytis, the “noble fungus” (or “noble rot”). Towards noon when the sun is at full strength, the moisture recedes, and the spread is slowed down; the grape dries up and is protected from rotting. In this way, a life cycle was created around the clock that controls the spread of the fungus. It penetrates the grape and pierces its skin, and as a result, it loses the amount of water in it, creating a high sugar concentration. In addition, the fungus imparts to the Sauternes wine a characteristic taste of noble rot. In years when the noble rot does not develop, it is not possible to produce Sauternes wine, and the grapes often produce dry white wines. In bad years, it even happens that the process is accelerated excessively, and the grapes rot. The grapes that the fungus “attacks” look rotten, sick, and shriveled, wrapped in mold. Botrytis does not damage the grape, even though it looks damaged, and certainly does not spoil it, but makes it very sweet. When the must ferment, this sweetness turns into alcohol, but some of it remains and forms.
Botrytis-infected cluster (Photo: Château Guiraud)
Three grape varieties are allowed to grow and produce wine in the area defined by law as Sauternes, and they make up the blend. The main one is the Sémillon, followed by the Sauvignon Blanc and, to a lesser extent, the Muscadel. These three white varieties were not chosen randomly; each has advantages regarding the production of Sauternes wine. The Sémillon is the leader, as it has a thick and strong shell. This variety can withstand the fungus and is also immune to other diseases. The Sauvignon Blanc adds freshness to the final blend against the monotony of the Sémillon. Last but not least is the Muscadel, full of fragrances and aromas that no other variety has. The problem with it is that it is prone to diseases and difficult to grow. The Muscadelle is a relatively small addition in percentages; some wineries give it up completely. The harvest is carried out using a “Sequence of Trials” method. The harvesters harvest several times, and each time harvests only the infected grapes to the desired extent; this is how they harvest in the first, second, third, and even fourth rounds. All this when the first rain threatens from the other side. The beginning of harvest occurs in the middle of October. The end of the harvest comes in mid-November. Since each grape variety is harvested separately, it is also squeezed separately and fermented separately, and only after fermentation is the blending of the three strains performed together. Hence Sauternes is not a varietal wine but a blended wine. Fermentation in Sauternes is carried out in French oak barrels, some of which are old. The duration of fermentation is between two and six weeks. If it doesn’t stop by itself, the winemaker decides when to stop it since the wine requires retaining some natural sugar. Stopping the fermentation is done by itself, due to the alcohol content and by adding sulfur dioxide (SO2). Here the winemaker’s ability to know when and how to continue the fermentation is measured. If too much alcohol is formed, the wine will be too strong and clumsy; If there is too little alcohol and too much sugar, the wine will be oily and syrupy. This sweet wine has been aged in oak barrels for about two years. The production is measured here according to the formula “one glass of wine from each” vine.” For comparison: in normal wine production, a harvest of “one bottle of wine from each vine” is acceptable. Hence the relatively high price of Sauternes wine: it is exposed to bad weather conditions, as it is harvested in the fall when freezing or hail can destroy the crop. Its picking is manual and is done in several rounds, and finally, only a few drops of must can be squeezed from each raisin.
History
Dessert wines were made popular by the Russians first and then the English, not only because of their sweet taste. The production and consumption of high-sugar wines also stemmed from purely practical reasons since sugar is a preservative. The problem of stabilizing and preserving the wine during long transports gave rise to various solutions; sweet wine was one of them. The method was to harvest late to get a wine with a very high sugar level so that it preserves the wine. Evidence of late vintages in Sauternes appears as early as 1666. Still, the great success only began to blow in the 20th century when Hungary, the biggest competitor in dessert wines, fell into the arms of communism, and Tokay left the competition. The end of the Second World War opened the road to a wide American market to Sauternes.
Food and Sauternes
sweet wines, especially those with acidity like Sauternes, go well with the exotic flavors of Asian food. The reason is that the sourness contrasts the sweetness of most Asian dishes and combines well with their spiciness. Sauternes will not suit rich, meaty dishes that are better suited to reds. Even chicken dishes can still clash with the sweet flavors of the wine. Therefore, in most cases, it is better to drink Sauternes’ solo, with cheeses or desserts.
Sauterne wine and cheeses (Photo: Château Suduiraut)
Sauterne wine was popular among the founding fathers of the United States – Thomas Jefferson became a big fan of it during his trips to Paris, and President George Washington ordered 30 dozen bottles after tasting Château d’Yquem.
The wine has a nutty taste typical of Sémillon, as well as peach, apricot, and honey flavors. The taste of a Sauternes continues to resonate in the oral cavity for a long time. It is recommended to serve it at around 10-13 degrees Celsius, although Sauternes, aged more than 15 years, is served warmer. Decantation benefits Sauternes wines, as it releases their delicious, sweet fruit aromas. This is especially true for older vintages. Decant up to 30 minutes before tasting to allow them to open. Younger wines usually do not need more than 15 minutes of fermentation.
2019 vintage:
The tastings I conducted of Sauternes and Barsac from the 2019 vintage were a pleasant surprise, indicating an outstanding vintage in the making. What I loved about Sauternes /Barsac from the 2019 vintage is the amazing balance between ripe “grape” flavors, botrytis complexity, and richness without heaviness.
2017 vintage:
I was particularly affected by the frost that occurred at the end of April 2017. The village of Barsac was hit particularly hard and lost 50% of the crop during those fateful nights. So, in terms of wine quantity, this vintage is dismal, but in terms of quality, it’s another story. 2017 was one of the most promising harvests. It was a great vintage in Sauterne, expressed in rich and exotic yet refreshing wines, with plenty of botrytis depth.
2015 vintage:
The quality of the vintage was excellent. Most of the wines are already ready to drink but will age for many more years. The wines are rich and intense with uncompromising quality, while wines are more subtle and often more elegant. Overall, it would be hard to find bad Sauternes or Barsac from 2015.
Changes in wind direction
Until about a hundred years ago, Sauternes had a traditional place on the dinner table as an aperitif wine. Over the years, it has been relegated to the place of a last-course wine. Why the change? One of the main reasons is that a century ago, weather conditions were cooler. The grapes did not ripen to the same sugar level as they do today, so Sauternes’ wine had much less residual sugar, making it easier for chefs to combine it with appetizers. Another reason is that in the 19th century, members of the aristocracy enjoyed leisurely, multi-course dinners. Today – even for the aristocracy – long dinners are mostly a fad of yesteryear. People today tend to enjoy a glass of Sauternes with their desserts. Sauternes manufacturers accept this habit but disclaim it. Legend has it that in the 1980s, Madame Janine of Château Clémence (wife of the manager of the Clémence estate at the time) refused to sell bottles to anyone who said they wanted to pair it with dessert. However, the place of Sauternes as a dessert wine is also diminishing. François Amirault, The winemaker, and estate manager of Château de Fargues, claims that it is difficult for consumers to like the special flavors of botrytis. Therefore, the wineries in Sauternes try to produce more fruity, floral, and fresh wines. Sandrine Garbay, the head winemaker of Château d’Yquem, said in an interview with her that as a result of the stiffening of the fines imposed on drunk drivers, the last wine in the meal – the dessert wine – is the main victim, as it is easy to give up. Apart from that, the growing awareness of reducing sugars for health reasons causes a decrease in the demand for Sauternes wines. Many in the Sauternes area keep their heads down and wait for the customer’s tastes to change. Like many port producers in Portugal, others turn to producing dry wines, which are more popular today.
Below are the wineries I visited and the wines I tasted. Next to the grade I gave the wine, I also wrote down the rates international wine critics gave: RP= Robert Parker and WS= Wine Spectator.
Château de Rayne Vigneau
Vincent Labergere is the CEO of Château Rein Vigneau, and this is his story about the wonderful 2017 vintage:
“During the creation of the 2017 vintage, all the winery employees walked around with a smile on their faces because they knew that in this vintage, we were touching perfection: the timing of the vintage was precise, and it was clear to me from which barrels of different plots and different varieties I have to create the blend. All the puzzle pieces fell into place, not only for me, but the employees around me felt my confidence, and the way was clear to them too. There are difficult vintages where you must rack your brains to get the most out of the problematic raw material. In vintages like these, the winemaker has a lot of hesitations. But in the 2017 harvest, there was no hesitation at all. It was a special feeling of touching perfection. This is happiness mixed with fear because I might not be able to repeat such success in the future. However, I know that if the stars align once more, I will be able to repeat the success because I have already proven to myself that I am capable. Like music, sometimes it touches deep inside, and so is this wine, that when people taste it, they smile. This is a wine made with a smile and brings a smile of happiness to the faces of those who taste it.”
Vincent Labergere, Château de Rayne Vigneau
Madame de Ryne 2019
Wine from the second and cheaper series of the winery. Lovely wine, with body. Excellent acidity that balances the sugar. 20 euros at the winery prices. Excellent wine for its price. I gave a score of 92.
Premier Grand Cru Classe 2003
It smells of dried apricot and smoke. Has some complexity, sweetness, and nice length. I gave a score of 93.
Premier Grand Cru Classe 2017
Wonderful wine! Complex scent. Aromas of orange, lemon zest, and mandarin. Full-bodied, balanced, and harmonious. Incredibly long finish. RP 94, WS 93, I gave a score of 95.
Chateau Doisy Daene
Jean Jacques Dubourdieu, CEO and young owner of the winery:
“At the age of 13, when I was still playing in the yard, my father asked me: would you like to make your own wine? It was an offer I couldn’t refuse because for me growing up was making wine. They bought me a small barrel, picked grapes, and allowed me to make wine as I wished. I looked at my father, a revered figure in the world of wine, and imitated him. I made a dry white wine. The result was not bad. Whenever wine critics came to the winery, my father asked me to present my wine to them and lo and behold; it even got good marks… My father never dissuaded me from becoming a winemaker. He always told me: travel the world and have fun, and if you want to come back and make wine – go ahead. He warned me that winemaking is a demanding job. Indeed, when I grew up, I traveled the world and worked in different places, including as a wine importer in the USA. My grandfather, who was more of a quitter than my father, would call me every day and say: isn’t it a shame that you sell expensive and bad wines when your family makes much better When are you coming back? I’m already old; who will step into my shoes? In 2006 I came back and started working with my father. In 2016, my father passed away and left a big void.”
Jean Jacques Dubourdieu, Chateau Doisy Daene
Denis Dubourdieu, the esteemed winemaker and director of the winery since 2000, was a professor of oenology at the University of Bordeaux and a consultant to many wineries. 2016 was a year of joy and sadness at the winery. Denis received the highest title of Legion d’Honneur from the French government for his work in the wine world and the honor “Man of the Year” by the Decanter wine magazine, but this year he also passed away at the age of 67. His son Jean-Jacques had big shoes to fill and manage the winery. According to the wines we tasted, the study is over, and the son is making his way safely and successfully in the wine world. The winery produces 3 wines: a dry white, a classic Sauternes, and in special vintages, the flagship wine l’Extravagance. This wine is priced high, and half a bottle (375 ccs) is sold at a price of about 250 euros, while the winery’s classic Sauternes is sold at about 50 euros for a full bottle. The Doisy Daene winery is located in Barsac; therefore, its wines are light but fresher and more elegant than the neighboring Sauternes wines. In the first years after the harvest, the winery wines have aromas and flavors of fresh fruit. As they mature, the flavors change to aromas of truffles and dried fruits. We tasted some of the winery’s beautiful wines:
Doisy-Daëne2016
Elegant and complex. Salt. Balanced. RP 94 I gave a score of 94.
Doisy-Daëne 2015
Wow, what a fantastic wine. Resin fragrance. Complexity of smells. Still, elegant, and balanced. RP 95-97. I gave a score of 95.
Doisy-Daëne 2014
Some complexity. Caramel aromas come to the nose. Medium body. RP 95-97, WS 95. I gave a score of 93.
Doisy-Daëne 2003
Smells of dried pineapple, chocolate, contact glue, and many botrytis. light body. Not too sweet. The vintage year is warm, so that the wine may have little aging potential. Elegant. RP 89, WS 90. I gave 93.
Doisy-Daëne L’Extravagant 2010
Wonderful wine. Based on Sauvignon Blanc grapes. A little botrytis. High concentration, high acidity. Elegant. RP 95-97. I gave it 95.
Doisy-Daëne 2019
Such an elegant and balanced wine. Food wine. Very long finish. RP 95. I gave a score of 94.
