A visit to the Ribera del Duero, where Spain makes some of the best wines in the world
Greetings,
Did you receive my email from a few days ago regarding my visit to the winery next week?
Regards Joseph
- Hello, Joseph
Thank you for reaching out. I hope this message finds you well. Apologies for the delay in responding; we’ve just returned from a two-week Christmas vacation. Unfortunately, due to our limited staff and capacity, we won’t be able to accommodate your visit to the winery next week.
Best regards, Belinda
- Dear Belinda,
Thank you for getting back to me. As per our recent phone conversation and the manager’s approval, I was hoping to confirm my visit for this coming Tuesday at three o’clock in the afternoon.
Looking forward to hearing from you soon.
Kind regards, Joseph
- Dear Joseph,
Thank you for your understanding. Unfortunately, our last guest visit is scheduled for one o’clock, and the winery closes at two o’clock. Would you be able to adjust your visit to nine o’clock in the morning?
Best regards, Belinda
- Hi Belinda,
I appreciate your response. I’ve been attempting to organize visits to multiple wineries each day, aiming for afternoon slots. However, it seems challenging to secure afternoon appointments. Could you please shed some light on this matter?
Thank you, Joseph
- Yossi,
In a nutshell – siesta. After lunch, we tend to take a break from hard work.
Best regards, Belinda

All my efforts to arrange three wine tastings a day at the wineries of Ribera del Duero were futile, and the reason, as mentioned, was the siesta. One winemaker I met elucidated: “Our guests typically return from a hearty and leisurely lunch. I recently had a group with whom we agreed, in a rare departure from tradition, to conduct a tasting after lunch. They laughed and chatted until I had to halt the tasting, leaving a bottle of wine in their hands and saying: ‘Guys, sit outside under the tree and enjoy; the wine is on the house.’
Organizing a wine trip in Ribera del Duero is challenging, sometimes exceedingly so. Some of the top-tier wineries are ill-prepared for visits: they are exceptionally small, lack a designated tasting area, and are not particularly welcoming to visitors. When I say “not particularly welcoming,” I mean they don’t readily accommodate random visitors. Take, for instance, the renowned Pingus Winery. Finding it is akin to a quest verging on the impossible. Nestled innocuously in a side alley within an unassuming house, there’s no signage indicating its presence. Even upon locating the house, there’s no indication of the winery’s name; just a modest “office” sign. Press the buzzer, and the door opens to reveal a narrow staircase leading to a surprisingly expansive winery.

Ribera del Duero wines are traditionally classified into four categories, in accordance with the Designation of Origin (D.O.) regulations:
- Hoban (young) – Typically not aged in barrels.
- Crianza – Aged for a minimum of 12 months in oak barrels and an additional 12 months in the bottle.
- Reserva – Aged for at least 3 years, with a minimum of one year spent in oak barrels.
- Gran Reserva – Aged for a minimum of 5 years, including at least one year in oak barrels.
Crianza wines are renowned for their power, full-bodied character, and fruity profile. This style enjoys widespread popularity in Spain and across the globe, with many wineries in Ribera del Duero catering to a devoted audience. However, these wines often lack refinement and complexity. Nevertheless, a select group of wineries has long been producing wines with both power and finesse, offering a combination of refinement and complexity. To delve into these exceptional wines, it’s necessary to journey back in time.
Nothing to do with Sicily
There is a winery known as Vega Sicilia (which bears no relation to the island in the Mediterranean). Established in 1864, it stood as a beacon of quality amidst the sea of agricultural cooperatives producing powerful yet mediocre wines in the region. In 1972, it was joined by Pesquera Winery, whose gradual rise to prominence garnered a global following and elevated its ratings among international wine critics. This success bolstered Ribera del Duero’s reputation, prompting authorities to reevaluate the region and grant it the coveted Designation of Origin (D.O.).
The triumph of Pesquera and Vega Sicilia sparked a surge in winery establishments in the area, with estimates now surpassing 400. Many of these wineries boast lavish visitor centers and architectural marvels designed by renowned international architects. They source grapes from all around and produce wines characterized by their fruitiness, potency, and prominent wood flavors, albeit often mediocre in quality.
However, amidst this influx, a select few wineries in the valley have prioritized quality above all else. These establishments craft traditional wines, primarily from 100% Tempranillo grapes, employing innovative techniques while upholding exceptional grape quality. They skillfully balance the region’s inherent power with complexity and refinement. Notable among these are Dominio de Pingus, Bodega Mauro, Viña Sastre, Aalto, Ausás Bodega, Viñedo, and Dominio del Águila.
The wines from these esteemed wineries are eagerly sought after, often selling out within days of release and commanding high prices. An amusing anecdote shared by the export manager of Aalto Winery illustrates this demand. On one occasion, a wealthy Italian tycoon and his entourage landed near the winery in a private plane. Despite their considerable wealth, they were left empty-handed when they arrived two years late to acquire a special 18-liter bottle for their youngest son. The vintage they sought had long been depleted, proving that even in the Duero valley, money cannot buy everything.

Here are some impressions from the wines I tasted:
Dominio del Águila
Jorge Monzón, the winemaker of Dominio del Águila, and Maximo, the general manager, oversee an underground winery housed in an unmarked building with an intricate network of tunnels below. The prospect of descending into these tunnels may raise concerns: Is the ceiling likely to collapse? However, these concerns are somewhat exaggerated. The tunnels have remained stable for centuries and are specifically designed to age wines at a consistent temperature, unaffected by external conditions. Jorge employs traditional methods for wine production, conducting fermentation and aging in barrels within the narrow tunnels. A small team manually handles the bottling process: one cleans empty bottles, another fills them directly from the barrel using a hose, a third applies labels, a fourth arranges the crates, and the fifth, typically the strongest, transports the wine crates up steep stairs. Once the work is completed, the team must still navigate the challenging task of hoisting the empty barrels, each weighing 80 kilograms, up the stairs for cleaning—a task reminiscent of Sisyphean labor. Nevertheless, their meticulous attention to detail and unique style result in excellent wines that consistently earn high praise from wine critics.

Ausàs
Xavier Ausàs is not only a remarkable individual but also one of the leading winemakers in Ribera del Duero. Having served as the chief winemaker of Vega Sicilia for approximately 25 years, he eventually decided to retire and return home. Interestingly, during his tenure, Ausàs collaborated with Jorge Águila Winery at Vega Sicilia, illustrating the intricate connections within the Duero Valley, with many paths leading back to Vega.
In 2016, Ausàs established his own winery, and in its inaugural vintage year, his wine earned an exceptional score of 95 from wine critic Robert Parker—a feat unparalleled by many. His winemaking philosophy revolves around blending wines from various vineyard plots. Although he does not own the vineyards, Ausàs purchases grapes from sources he has known for over three decades. The vineyards used for his Ausàs Interpretación wine boast an average age of about 40 years.
Each plot’s grapes undergo fermentation and aging separately, with blending occurring just before bottling. This meticulous approach allows Ausàs to craft a wine that, in his view, best captures the essence of Ribera del Duero’s terroir and reflects the winemaker’s character. He skillfully infuses floral notes from grapes grown in light soils, fruitiness from those in clayey soils, freshness from higher-altitude vineyards, and a robust character from vineyards in rugged terrain.
The Ausàs Interpretación 2017 is crafted entirely from Tempranillo grapes and is aged for 16 months in both old and new barrels. It exudes aromas of red fruit, boasts a deep and full-bodied profile, with dense, pronounced tannins, culminating in a long and impressive finish. This wine is built for longevity, earning a score of 94 from Robert Parker, with the potential for further accolades. I gave a score of 94 too.

Viña Sastre
Viña Sastre stands as a testament to familial dedication in winemaking, boasting some of the oldest vineyards in the Ribera del Duero region. The Crianza wines originate from 60-year-old vineyards, while the esteemed Regina Vides wines derive from vineyards aged 80 to 100 years. The production output is remarkably small, with only a single bottle of wine yielded from each vine annually.
At the helm of the winery is Jesus Sastre, who serves as both winemaker and manager, with his philosophies and production talents shaping the winery’s trajectory. During our visit, we had the pleasure of meeting Euginio Bayon, the CEO of the winery.
Viña Sastre is committed to organic and biodynamic farming principles, with all wines crafted using the most natural methods possible. For nearly three decades, no fertilizers or pesticides have been employed. The wines are never filtered, and sulfur dioxide (SO2) is not added. Additionally, all fermentation processes utilize natural yeast. New plantings are sourced from cuttings of their most esteemed vineyards or from low-yielding Tempranillo clones.
Here are some of the wines we tasted:
- Viña Sastre Pago de Santa Cruz 2016: A youthful wine, likely still unfolding in complexity. Tannic, powerful, and full-bodied, earning a score of 93.
- Viña Sastre Regina Vides 2016: Multidimensional, though complexity may still be developing. Tannic, powerful, and full-bodied, but with limited length. Scored at 93.
- Viña Sastre Pesus 2015: Exhibits a complex nose, with fruity, dense, and powerful characteristics. A pleasing finish resulted in a score of 94. Robert Parker scored it a 94.
- Viña Sastre Regina Vides 2006: Originating from 82-year-old vineyards, this wine offers a complex nose of blueberries, herbs, and spices. Full-bodied and powerful, yet time has softened its edges, resulting in a rounded profile. Scored at 95. Robert Parker scored it a 93.
- Viña Sastre Pago de Santa Cruz 2001: Reveals aromas and flavors of blackberry, with a compressed and complex palate that retains its tannic structure even after 19 years. I scored at 94. Robert Parker scored it a 91.


Aalto
The winery, founded in 1999 by Mariano García, who served as the winegrower of Vega Sicilia for three decades, along with Javier Zaccagnini, also an anchor at Vega Sicilia. Antonio Moral, who led our tasting experience, now assumes the role of chief winemaker. Specializing in just two wines—Aalto and Aalto PS—the latter considered the premier offering and crafted solely in exceptional vintages from the finest vines. Both wines are crafted from the Tempranillo grape, known locally as Tinto Fino. Each plot’s grapes undergo separate fermentation before being blended just prior to bottling, with each contributing its unique attributes to the final blend: freshness, power, elegance, fruitiness, and more.
During our discussion, Herranz Arrantxa, the winery’s sales manager, shared insights into the vintage years, noting that both 2017 and 2007 were challenging, as is often the case with years ending in seven. Tactlessly, I inquired about her birth year (admittedly, I was quite tipsy at this point), to which she confessed that her birth year indeed ended in seven. “Wines,” she quipped with a laugh, “behave differently from people.” According to Herranz, 2016 and 2019 emerged as standout vintage years, closely followed by 2018.
Eduardo Ferrin, the winery’s CEO, recounted his interview experience with the esteemed Mariano Garcia. Asked for his opinion after being poured a glass of the winery’s product, Eduardo hesitated deeply and began mumbling something about astringency, earthiness, and so on. Ferrin recalls Mariano’s straightforward query: “Do you like this wine or not?” Responding with a resounding “Love!” secured his position within the winery. This anecdote not only underscores Mariano’s legacy but also encapsulates the winery’s corporate ethos: a dedication to producing exceptional wines tailored to the preferences of oenophiles worldwide.

Aalto 2017 An explosion of fruit. Complex, mouth-filling, yet linear. Lengthy finish. I scored it 95, while RP awarded it 94.
Aalto PS 2017 Incredible refinement. Full-bodied yet rounded, with powerful, multi-layered fruit flavors. Long finish. I scored it 95, while RP awarded it 94.
Aalto PS 2003 Lighter than the 2017 vintage but boasting remarkable complexity in flavors! Full-bodied with impressive power. I scored it 94, while RP awarded it 93.

Mauro
The winery is named after Mauro Garcia, the father of founder Mariano Garcia. No, you weren’t mistaken; it’s the same Mariano Garcia from Aalto Winery. That’s how it goes in Ribera del Duero—wine knowledge flows from the esteemed Vega Sicilia, carried by its retirees who establish young wineries that eventually gain fame. Although Mauro’s wines are classified in the modest “Vinos de la Tierra” table wine category, nothing about Mauro’s ultra-luxury Spanish winery is ordinary. With a small yet premium range of red wines consistently earning 90-plus points in world wine guides, Mauro proves that categories aren’t everything.
Situated at the western end of Ribera del Duero, Mauro lies just beyond the official boundaries of the D.O. While D.O. classification could have undoubtedly provided a marketing advantage, the winery enjoys more freedom than strictly controlled D.O. wines. This flexibility allows Mauro to define a unique style characterized by small batches of fruity and potent wines capable of aging gracefully. Winemakers Mariano and Eduardo Garcia (Mariano spent the first thirty years of his career producing wines at the legendary Vega Sicilia winery) have crafted three Tempranillo-based wines, embodying an exceptionally robust and aromatic character representative of the region. The majority of the vineyards are 60 years old and older.
Mauro 2017 A well-balanced and harmonious wine, still exhibiting closed characteristics during tasting. I scored it 92, as did RP.
Mauro VS 2004 Notable aromas of berries. Powerful and deep, displaying both elegance and muscle. I scored it 94, while RP gave it 93.
