Amarone – The Elegant Giant
Amarone –The Elegant Giant
There are only a handful of Italian wines that can claim the title of beingn 1100, an Italian nobleman renowned for his passion for wine embarked on a gastronomic journey, traversing various regions in Italy. Before commencing his trip, he dispatched his trusted attendant to scout the locations and evaluate the quality of food and wine establishments along his route. They devised a covert signal: each time the servant encountered a place serving exceptional wine, he would inscribe the word “Est” on the entrance as a discreet recommendation (“Est” being an abbreviation for “vinum est bonum”, translating to “the wine is good”). During one of his stops, the servant encountered a delightful wine that captivated his palate, prompting him to wholeheartedly endorse the tavern by boldly inscribing “Est! Est! Est!” on its threshold. Upon the arrival of the aristocrat to the village some days later, the tale goes that he became enamored with the wine to such a degree that he resided there until his passing. In his last testament, the aristocrat gifted a significant amount of money to the village, along with his desire that annually, on the date of his passing, a cask of his cherished wine would be poured over his resting place. The community continues to uphold his wishes to the present time…
There are only a handful of Italian wines that can claim the title of being the finest in the global wine scene. Yet, if I were to designate a single Italian wine the Est! Est! Est! superlative, it would undoubtedly be the Amarone della Valpolicella. This exceptionally rich and intense wine stands out as a true masterpiece. Enthusiasts of such remarkable wines would find it challenging to replace the Amarone della Valpolicella with any alternative.
There are several exceptional Italian wines known worldwide. Valpolicella, a region with a rich winemaking tradition that dates back centuries, is located north of Verona, in the Veneto region close to Venice. Valpolicella, a stunning area characterized by lush vineyards and olive groves, has been renowned since ancient Roman times, possibly stemming from the Latin term “Vallis-Polis-Cellae,” meaning a valley with numerous cellars. The production of Amarone wine involves a sophisticated and distinctive process. The grape clusters are carefully placed on spacious wooden drying racks in well-ventilated chambers. The grapes undergo a process where they are left on wooden mats for a period spanning from three to four months. They gradually shrink and shed around 30% to 40% of their mass throughout this period. This desiccation phase results in a surge of sugar content within the grape, leading to an intensified flavor profile. Once the grape juice is extracted, it possesses a high concentration and sweetness. Only certain strains of yeast can tolerate such elevated sugar levels. By utilizing robust yeast strains, Amarone producers achieve a dry wine with a notable alcohol content (often reaching 16%). Subsequent to the grape desiccation, a considerable amount of grapes is needed to produce a single bottle of wine, contributing to the higher price point of Amarone relative to other premium wines.
A lesser-known fact is that Amarone has an understated elder sibling. Not out of embarrassment, but simply because Amarone’s brilliance often steals the spotlight. Meet Recioto, born during the Roman Empire era. Delightfully sweet, Recioto resembles Port at its finest. Amarone, a more recent addition (from around the last 50 years), traces its roots back to Recioto.
"Love will ferment beyond the wine"
Exploring the wineries of the Valpolicella region offers a captivating journey, appealing not only to wine enthusiasts but also to anthropologists keen on uncovering the diverse narratives woven into the fabric of this rich viticultural landscape. Alongside diligent vintners, whose tireless dedication led them to meticulously save every penny to acquire their own parcel of land, fulfilling their aspirations of crafting exquisite Amarone, one encounters a spectrum of characters. From the industrious artisans to the wine aristocracy, whose opulent lifestyles are epitomized by sleek Italian sports cars and tastings held within the storied walls of a castle, each encounter reveals a unique facet of this enchanting world of wine.
During my recent tour of the region, I encountered both groups, but it was the former that shared the most intimate tales. The Tommaso Bussola Winery, owned by Tommaso, the dedicated winegrower and vintner, and his wife, Daniella, left a lasting impression. Greeted by the couple at the winery entrance—a humble abode compared to the grandeur of many boutique wineries—Tommaso wore weathered work attire while Daniella donned an apron. Despite Tommaso’s limited English proficiency, Daniella effortlessly conveyed their stories. In 1970, Tommaso embarked on his winemaking journey with his uncle but parted ways due to his unwavering commitment to crafting uncompromisingly fine wines. When Daniella met him, she was not a wine enthusiast, particularly finding Amarone too bitter. However, her father held a deep appreciation for Tommaso’s Recioto, which eventually garnered acclaim as the valley’s finest in 1984. When asked if her father influenced her decision to marry Tommaso, Daniella laughed, asserting her love for him as the driving force. Initially hesitant to invest their modest savings in purchasing land, Daniella’s father reassured her of Tommaso’s potential as a talented winemaker, prompting their leap into significant debt to acquire the vineyard. Despite the financial struggles, Tommaso’s vineyard remains renowned for its exceptional quality, boasting not wealth, but an abundance of wine within its cellars.
I savored the remarkable and deeply concentrated 2005 TB (WS 90) alongside the fruity and vibrant 2006 Classico (WS 93). Personally, I found the 2005 to exude greater elegance. The 2004 Recioto mesmerized with its unparalleled intensity and sophistication (WS 93), while the 2008 vintage proved to be a delightful surprise, boasting a wonderfully sweet and concentrated Crème de Cassis flavor.
Her love for wine led her from the freight company back home
Mara Castellani, the sales manager at Castellani Winery, has been immersed in the world of wine since childhood. Her earliest memory is the aroma of wine during extraction, a scent that felt entirely natural to her but bewildering to her childhood friends who played alongside her in the winery cellar. Founded by her grandfather in 1945, winemaking has remained a cornerstone of the family’s legacy, with each sibling assuming a role suited to their individual character. However, Mara sought to carve her own path, temporarily distancing herself by relocating to London after her studies. Working for a freight company, she sought independence from the familial business. Yet, her passion for people and joy led her back to the world of wine. For Mara, the allure lies not just in family ties but in the shared moments of happiness with customers—a sentiment that sets the wine industry apart. Nonetheless, navigating the familial dynamics proves challenging; her father, a dynamic and assertive figure at 62, maintains a firm grip on the business. Mara humorously notes the temporary reprieve during her father’s vacations, only to be met with daily inquiries, a testament to the enduring familial bond amidst the occasional tension.
We sampled the 2005 Campo Casalin (WS 92), notable for its robust tannins and bold character, followed by the elegant and superb 2005 Cinque Stele, and the 2006 Colle Cristi (WS 92), which, while lighter, maintained an intense profile.
The Russians really love her grandfather's Recioto
Silvia Allegrini represents the seventh generation of the Allegrini family, tracing back to the winery’s establishment in 1854. Much like Mara Castellani, Silvia was born into the world of wine. Her earliest recollection of red wine stems from her childhood, when she curiously requested a taste from her grandfather, who playfully obliged by dipping his finger into the glass and then into her mouth, as she wasn’t yet permitted to drink wine. Today, as a mother of two, Silvia shares her passion for wine with her children, allowing them small sips while refraining from the finger-dipping ritual. Raised in the vineyard’s ambiance, her children, too, mirror the familial tradition; even when enjoying a glass of cola, they instinctively mimic the swirling motion typical of wine tasting.
The Allegrini Winery stands out among Amarone producers as one of the most progressive and modern establishments. With a philosophy centered around prioritizing the grape, the winery eschews the traditional practice of intentionally allowing grapes to rot, viewing it as contrary to their vision. Instead, their aim is to preserve the natural fruitiness of the grape and translate it faithfully into the final wine. To achieve this, the grape-drying process takes place in expansive halls meticulously controlled for temperature and humidity, ensuring the bunches remain in optimal condition throughout.
The tasting unfolded within the grandeur of a recently acquired old castle, a majestic setting to which we were led by Silvia in her striking sports car. Inside the opulent tasting room adorned with Roman sculptures, a towering fireplace crackled with the warmth of burning tree trunks. Silvia, exuding elegance and purpose, inundated us with elaborate brochures detailing the winery’s heritage and offerings, all while generously pouring glasses of exceptional wine.
We commenced with the 2007 Amarone, exuding a captivating aroma yet displaying a youthful bitterness and astringency. The 2006 Amarone held its own with a commendable presence (WS 92), while the 2005 vintage impressed with its elegance and refinement (WS 92). Moving back in time, the 2003 Amarone presented an intense profile, albeit still boasting high tannins (WS 90). In contrast, the 2001 Amarone, though lacking some of the elegance, earned praise with a commendable score of (WS 93).
Our tasting journey also included the Recioto. The 2000 vintage boasted a luscious, jam-like consistency of remarkable quality, while the 2007 Recioto presented a more refined elegance. Named after Silvia’s grandfather, Giovanni Allegrini, this wine holds a special place in the winery’s portfolio, as it was his favorite, surpassing even the renowned and intense Amarone. While dessert wines may not appeal to everyone, it’s intriguing to note that in Russia, Recioto holds the highest favor. Silvia expresses a wish for its broader global recognition, as it remains her personal favorite and thus easier for her to promote.
Departing from the majestic Valley, our journey led us to the Verona airport. Despite the GPS’s attempts to lead us astray through muddy vineyard shortcuts, we had neither the time nor the energy for such detours. With crates of precious wine nestled in the back of our mud-splattered rental car, we hastened home to our families, eager to savor not only their company but also a bottle of fine Amarone from our cellar, whose moment had finally arrived…
